It’s hard to pinpoint the best thing about this beautiful 17th-century coaching inn; is it the unparalleled views across the breath-taking Yorkshire countryside or the instant warmth you feel from the roaring fires, staff and general buzz of the place as you step inside? Or perhaps it’s the crowd-pleasing menu that undoubtedly plays its part in the town’s status as the ‘food capital of Yorkshire’.
Needless to say, these elements combine to make for a fantastic dining experience, whether it’s with friends after a long country walk, a date you’re trying to impress (you’ll succeed) or with the family on a Sunday afternoon.
We chose to dine in one of the three bar areas, all of which were filled with folks from all walks of life chattering happily over drinks and food. There were a few four-legged guests around too, including the manager’s bulldog, which is a major plus for a country(ish) pub as far as we’re concerned. That said, animal lovers might not be so keen on the stuffed game birds that adorn the walls.
Taxidermy aside, the interior is as cosy as can be, with a range of comfortable seating including bright orange banquettes and rustic wooden stools that contrast nicely with the midnight blue panelled walls. Those looking for something a little more formal might prefer the dining room, with its huge windows and scrubbed wooden tables, but we were perfectly content here.
The service on the night we visited was slow and disjointed, but always well-meaning and warm (we later discovered that our waitress was actually the receptionist drafted in at the last minute) but the food, when it did come, was generally very good.
The celeriac and hazelnut soup was rich and creamy, though we were slightly let down by the cheese soufflé which lacked the depth and flavour we were hoping for. Our venison and blackberry main dish, paired with a glass of Malbec, was a full-flavoured burgundy feast, and the hake was juicy and well-seasoned, if a tad oily. Desserts were a bit of a struggle, but in the best possible way – which is to say they were generous and rich, particularly the sticky ginger pudding.
There are plenty of spots to dine in this foodie town, but The Talbot is up there with the best. And if popularity is an indicator, we’d say the residents here know it.