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For his latest venture, Andrew Pern (of the venerable Star Inn at Harome) has pitched up in York, turning a dilapidated Engine House within the city’s Museum Gardens into a glamorous all-day eatery – complete with a glitzy glass and timber ‘garden room’. ‘Bringing a little bit of the country to the town’ is the theme, and the Star’s offer runs from breakfast until late with a menu of rustic dishes that makes the best of Yorkshire produce. A posh prawn cocktail is embellished with cold-smoked salmon, tomato sorbet and pea purée, while pickled quince take centre stage in a blue cheese salad. Elsewhere, a dish of cod and mash with parsley sauce is perked up with steamed mussels – a trademark riff on comfort food with a twist. Whether you eat in the panelled dining room, the bar or out on the terrace, it’s consistently excellent.
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