Whilst most country pubs would happily host a girly catch up dinner for 5 not every one would accommodate one on a Saturday night that comes with 3 black labradors, one baby and one very unsleepy toddler determined to explore the entire bar area so it's a testament to the hospitality of the friendly staff and clientele at The Packhorse Inn that we were not only tolerated but actually welcomed. The food here is more than you'd expect from the average country pub too. Yes, there are a few classics like steak and chips (reassuringly modern in its emphasis on provenance of the meat) but most dishes seem to include something to tickle the imagination. My fishy main came with "cockles popcorn": a bit adventurous and unusual but with echoes of something traditional, perfectly cooked (delicious, little, light batter-y mouthfuls) and a great complementary element to the dish. The star of the dessert show remains the gorgeous fluffy baked doughnuts, an absolute bargain at a mere £3. We didn't go mad on the drinks (the disadvantage of country dining is the driving, boo) although we managed a decent bottle of white (a Picpul I think although can't quite remember) from the longish list. The whole meal (3 courses and drinks) came in at a very reasonable £45 a head. If you want to go somewhere where a tolerant stranger will dandle your child on his knee, where staff croon over your dogs, and where you can eat great food, then this is the place for you. My only complaint is that it's a bit too far out in the country. Still, the owner is about to take over The Rupert Brooke in Grantchester which, being much closer to Cambridge, I hope will be be the perfect country pub not quite in the country.