CURRENTLY CLOSED AS IT MOVES TO NEW PREMISES NOTTING HILL, REOPENING IN SEPTEMBER. MORE INFO COMING SOON.
In a city teeming with young chefs and experimental cuisine, the return of John Burton-Race is surprising. Despite two Michelin stars and a high-profile TV career, his abrasive manner won few friends. So does his classical technique still appeal to modern London tastes? The answer is yes. Notting Hill loves this smart newcomer with its elegant interiors, warm lighting and friendly service. “I have rarely found such superior food, service and ambience in one location” declares one seasoned diner. The airy restaurant has leather banquettes and polished wooden floors, high stools at the bar and a pavement terrace, while in the kitchen, Burton-Race uses light, complex sauces to enhance ingredients. Foie gras terrine comes with peach purée, almonds and green beans; glazed sweetbreads are matched with succulent ceps, hazelnuts and rosemary cream. There are simpler assemblies too: roast langoustines and monkfish with samphire and sea purslane, say. The wine list is well chosen, and alongside desserts, tip-top French cheeses are served with honey, grated truffle and much theatre.