It’s all change in the kitchen at this smartly styled, well-upholstered restaurant-with-rooms (formerly a humble roadside boozer). Highly rated chef Charlie Lakin has moved on and his place has been taken by well-travelled brothers Michael and David Fowler, who previously worked together at The Prince’s Golf Club & Brasserie in Sandwich. The cooking now has a different tone, witness highly worked dishes such as mackerel tartare with radish, yoghurt, crab, tapioca, soy and mirin dressing or fillet of beef with meadow flowers, milk skin, fennel and potato purée, baby carrots and carrot gel. Post-lunch, you can get afternoon tea and bar snacks along the lines of wild mushrooms on char-grilled ciabatta or black pudding and bacon salad – perfect if you want to take advantage of the lovely garden. Kentish ales and wines from local vineyards feature on the wide-ranging drinks list.