Back in the day, this tunnel-like subterranean boozer was packed to the gunnels every night and it has lost none of its charm or atmosphere over years – even if there’s stiff local competition these days. Now run by Greene King, it offers the full range of ales as well as rotating guest brews and a creditable selection of wines to go with an all-day menu that sets out to please just about everyone – think trendy wraps, sharing plates, ‘hand-pressed’ burgers with skin-on chips, Sunday roasts and international favourites ranging from chicken chasseur and lasagne to fishcakes and sizzling fajitas. The narrow, windowless interior is lined with long tables and benches, while the walls and arched ceiling are exposed brick; alternatively, seek out the daylight and airy space of the pub’s beer garden – something of a rarity in the city.