The Counter by Robin Read in Tunbridge Wells serves modern British tasting menus in an intimate dining room, with a handful of tables and counter seats overlooking the kitchen. Seasonal produce guides the cooking, which combines classical techniques with new approaches. It’s a restaurant for lingering over several courses and works well for special occasions like anniversaries or milestone birthdays.
Dark timber panelling, exposed stonework and wooden floors give the interior warmth and texture. Small vases of flowers decorate the tables, with cushioned chairs and colourful artwork softening the industrial ceiling and visible kitchen. Pendant lights illuminate the counter, where black leather seats place diners close to the chefs.
Guests can choose five, seven or nine courses, with menus priced per person. The Kitchen Counter experience is reserved for the nine-course menu, served personally by Robin, who explains the ingredients, their origins and how each dish is prepared. Menus change with the seasons and reflect relationships with small farmers, growers and producers. Dishes might include starters like Orkney scallop with seaweed caviar and cauliflower and Cornish monkfish, larger dishes such as peppered duck with aubergine and oregano and roasted Scottish rump, followed by desserts including strawberry and lemon verbena or plum sorbet terrine with yoghurt ice cream.
A shorter three-course lunch menu offers another introduction to the kitchen. Choices might include Cornish tuna ragu with lemon mayonnaise and shiso, beef bourguignon with celeriac puree or steamed lemon sole, with tiramisu or an English cheeseboard afterwards. For something a little different, regular Kappo evenings at The Counter explore Japanese small plates.
Two wine pairings accompany the tasting menus: one draws on European bottles, while the other focuses entirely on English wines. A three-glass non-alcoholic pairing is also available. Cocktails include a Plum Sour, Blackberry Cosmopolitan and Yuzu Martini, alongside alcohol-free choices such as a Coastal Martini and Botivo Soda. Beer and soft drinks are also available.