A rambling country inn with a wealth of exposed wood and brickwork, The Compasses has bags of character and a menu worthy of a detour. It’s the work of chef Rob Taylor and his wife Donna, who lavish plenty of care on the place – particularly when it comes to food. With game estates, angling rivers, artisan producers and day-boat fish from the coast not far away, the kitchen is well-placed to deliver some terrific stuff – from potted smoked mackerel with fennel and apple slaw to free-range chicken with braised baby gem and peas. Much of the lunchtime menu is built around pub standbys (treacle-cured bacon, fried duck egg with dripping chips, etc), but you’ll also find, say, ox-cheek baps with horseradish mayonnaise. To finish, maybe try chocolate mousse brownie or apple and cinnamon crumble. Ales are from Shepherd Neame in Faversham.
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