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The setting by the North End Road roundabouts is hardly auspicious and the interiors are starting to look a bit “scruffy”, but this homely Chinese has built up a solid following over the years with its good-value cooking based on the distinctive cuisines of Taiwan, Hunan and Szechuan. A few generic Cantonese staples are on offer – steamed scallops, chicken in black bean sauce, sizzling fillet steak – but it pays to make a beeline for regional dishes such as a salad of jellyfish and chicken in sesame oil dressing, deep-fried French beans, Taiwanese-style tofu or shredded pork with spicy Chinese cabbage. The interiors feel reassuringly permanent with their expanses of carved wood and decorative ethnic artefacts, while moderate pricing means you get plenty of bang for your buck.
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