Given its lack of kerb appeal – the approach is a metal staircase leading to an unprepossessing basement – passers-by might not bother to investigate this Hammersmith hideaway. That would be a shame, because this latest addition to the Brook Green Hotel is really rather good... in parts. Wines are sparse and grub is limited to a quartet of copious (but underwhelming) sharing platters, although hop fanciers fare better with several draught beers including two from Meantime. However, the place really scores with its surprisingly classy cocktails: Gustav Holst is a rum and fruit punch served, flaming, in a martini glass the size of a small planet (the composer taught at a nearby girls’ school); otherwise, try a flawless monkey gland or Tennessee smash in this relaxed, attractive space, which offers a fair approximation of a Louisiana juke joint circa Tennessee Williams.