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SquareMeal Review of Smith's Cocktail Bar

Given its lack of kerb appeal – the approach is a metal staircase leading to an unprepossessing basement – passers-by might not bother to investigate this Hammersmith hideaway. That would be a shame, because this latest addition to the Brook Green Hotel is really rather good... in parts. Wines are sparse and grub is limited to a quartet of copious (but underwhelming) sharing platters, although hop fanciers fare better with several draught beers including two from Meantime. However, the place really scores with its surprisingly classy cocktails: Gustav Holst is a rum and fruit punch served, flaming, in a martini glass the size of a small planet (the composer taught at a nearby girls’ school); otherwise, try a flawless monkey gland or Tennessee smash in this relaxed, attractive space, which offers a fair approximation of a Louisiana juke joint circa Tennessee Williams.

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Location for Smith's Cocktail Bar

The Brook Green Hotel, 170 Shepherd’s Bush Road, London, W6 7PB

020 7371 1361

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