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SquareMeal Review of Siren

Silver Award

Nathan Outlaw is clearly a fan of a family-owned hotel. The Cornish chef’s first outpost in London was Nathan Outlaw at The Capital; now he has upped sticks to Belgravia, the only neighbourhood that can trump Knightsbridge for snob value, and opened Siren at The Goring.

The siren was the mythical seashore creature whose song bewitched Odysseus; this siren should also be a warning signal to stay away if the idea of paying £36 for battered turbot is not your idea of a fish supper. But, really, what else would you expect from a hotel which hosts the Buckingham Palace Christmas party?

To say nothing of a hotel dining room that has been treated to a £4m refurb by Russell Sage Studio that has seen a high-spec version of a colour-supplement conservatory extension added to the spruced-up bar. With the windows thrown open over The Goring’s private lawn, you have the glorious impression of dining outside without the bother of insects and wobbly tables.

But this isn’t just a dining room for summer. Glass lobsters dangling from the ceiling clutch lightbulbs between their claws that flicker into life when it gets dark, candlight flickers from within glass sea urchins, the menus are made from faux sharkskin while the dinky chairs are upholstered in jazzy floral fabrics. It's not hard to see what £4m buys you.   

Things got off to a tremendous start with homemade bread accompanied by light-as-air whipped cod’s roe, and a plate of buttery baked oysters. Starters proper were exceptional: a tomato and herb risotto covered in a snowfall of sweet Cornish crab meat, and two fat scallops in a puddle of orange sauce that matched the shellfish for sweetness.

Mains, alas, didn’t exhibit the same sure touch. Dover sole curling around the edges had not responded well to its filleting (to be fair, our charming waitress had advised that it be served on the bone). But although the clotted cream sauce was as luscious as it sounds, there was not a lot of fish for £56. Red mullet with devilled shrimp butter and chicory, meanwhile, didn’t live up to the zingy promise of its ingredients. Perhaps some simply grilled fish – the day’s catch presented to diners on a silver platter in the way that steak restaurants parade their choicest cuts – might have been better.

Full marks, though, for the chips drizzled with a garlic and parsley mayo (like the most luxe kebab sauce imaginable) and a perfectly custardy Cambridge burnt cream (aka crème brûlée) with the added bonus of a disc of sugar-dusted homemade shortbread for dunking.

Still, there are enough tourists hungry to eat in the hotel where the Duchess of Cambridge spent her last night as Kate Middleton and the Queen Mum’s favourite egg dish is on the menu. And the setting really is enchanting. We just wish that Nathan Outlaw would follow the lead of his former protégé, Tom Brown of Cornerstone, and open his own place in London.


About Siren

If acclaimed Cornish chef Nathan Outlaw and inimitable interior designer Russell Sage don’t lure you to The Goring’s brand new seafood restaurant, nothing will. A slightly more casual experience than the hotel’s flagship restaurant, The Dining Room, Siren offers a bright, welcoming space with pretty views of The Goring’s majestic garden.

Inspired by the Goring family’s strong ties to Cornwall, Siren’s focus is on Cornish produce crafted into simple yet elegant dishes, such as cuttlefish black pudding with apple and kohlrabi, and red mullet with devilled shrimp butter and chicory. Traditional English flavours are reimagined in desserts including gooseberry pavlova with custard ice cream, and strawberry tart with yoghurt sorbet.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
British, Fish
Glamorous, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Romantic
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Great views
Special Features
Wheelchair access
Birthdays, Celebrations, Celeb-spotting, Dates, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

This venue also offers

Location for Siren

The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, London, SW1W 0JW

020 7769 4485


Opening Times

Mon 12:00-14:00
Tue 12:00-14:00
Wed 12:00-14:00
Thu 12:00-14:00
Fri 12:00-14:00
Sat 12:00-14:00
Sun 12:00-14:00
Mon 17:30-21:30
Tue 17:30-21:30
Wed 17:30-21:30
Thu 17:30-21:30
Fri 17:30-22:00
Sat 17:30-22:00
Sun 17:30-21:30

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