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Part of an expanding West End offering, Shoryu’s Kingly Court branch provides fuss-free Japanese cuisine for the Carnaby Street throngs. Communal benches, shelf-lined walls and a more intimate rear enclave set the scene in this lively eatery, which also comes suitably decorated with Japanese art. The speciality is tonkotsu ramen, a generous pork broth in an array of incarnations given theatrical monikers ranging from ‘fire and ice’ tsukemen (cold ramen with warm wasabi sauce) to the much-lauded Dracula tonkotsu. We found the latter bland and unworthy of the hype, but the popular ‘karaka tantan’ version delivers, with chiu-chow chilli oil spicing up fried minced pork. Steamed hirata buns are a moreish side, and the kitchen also turns out a selection of sashimi, gyoza and yakitori skewers. To drink, investigate the fascinating list of sakés, shochu and Japanese whiskeys.
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