Saporitalia

Firmly traditional in its outlook, with an all-Italian team and a family background, this dinky Italian in the midst of Portobello Market scores heavily with its mammoth wood-fired pizzas, which are handcrafted in full view of customers – and passers-by. Good ingredients and proper baking skills are the secret, there are no fancy add-ons or zany toppings and prices are in line with this pizza-hungry neighbourhood. The kitchen also bulks out its offer with miniature bruschetti, assorted antipasti such as deep-fried zucchini, and a selection of pastas ranging from gnocchi in tomato sauce with mozzarella to fat paccheri with veal meatballs. The interior is as plain and honest as the food – a buffet table here, a trompe l’oeil street scene there.

Saporitalia is the ultimate restaurant for true fans of Italian cuisine, made up of three neighbouring venues on Portobello Road, all connected by one kitchen, one family and a beautiful commitment to authentic Italian cooking. What began in 2012 as a small restaurant beside a local Tesco grew gradually into something much bigger, taking over the former Portobello Road School and transforming its overgrown playground into what is now Portobello Garden.

That family-run story gives Saporitalia much of its character. Across the Ristorante and the Garden, the restaurant blends the buzz of a proper neighbourhood trattoria with a personal touch, right down to the bancone at the heart of the dining room, where mixed Italian cured meats and cheeses are served alongside San Daniele DOP prosciutto with carasau bread.

The kitchen's pasta, pizza and classic Italian dishes reflect that same dedication to tradition. The chef’s risotto combines saffron, porcini mushrooms, truffle oil and burrata sauce, while the spaghetti alle vongole keeps things authentic with clams, chilli, garlic, olive oil and parsley. Richer options include paccheri with four cheeses, tomato, truffle cream and ricotta salata, or pappardelle in butter, sage and truffle cream.

Pizza is equally varied. The Pistacchiosa layers mozzarella, burrata, mortadella, pistachio, basil pesto and Parmesan, while the Saporitalia keeps things more traditional with tomato, mozzarella, Parmesan, buffalo mozzarella, olive oil and basil. There is also a four-cheese pizza with Gorgonzola and smoked scamorza, plus a folded calzone stuffed with mozzarella, tomato, ricotta, salami and ham. For something more substantial, mains include grilled marinated lamb cutlets with potatoes and salad, baked salmon with orange and honey glaze, and chicken Milanese baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella.

Those with a sweet tooth should definitely save space for dolci with crepes and waffles taking centre stage, covered in Nutella drizzle with fresh sliced banana and milk chocolate flakes, or a pistachio and white chocolate version with pistachio nuts.