Just when you think Notting Hill’s roster of restaurants is at its peak, Trogolo bursts onto the scene to keep the fire burning.
It’s a lively little Florentine trattoria, founded by Lara Boglione, of Petersham Nurseries, and her winemaker husband Giovanni Mazzei. As Tuscan locals, the pair bring a tapestry of authentic ingredients, secret recipes, and Italian hospitality to Westbourne Grove.
Inside, warm candles cast a glow over limewashed walls, and wooden stools are squeezed into every nook and cranny. Spilling out onto the street, it’s the kind of place that would sooner go next door and ask for an extra chair, than turn someone away.
Giovanni has an impressive wine cellar, which favours Tuscan varieties and amounts to over 300 bottles. The staff navigate the lengthy list with ease - it’s worth ordering a bottle and settling in for the night.
Tuscan cuisine is all about simple, salt of the earth cooking, led by quality ingredients. Head downstairs and you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled into an Italian deli - a marble countertop is covered with toppling towers of cheese, and glistening legs of ham at the mercy of a meat slicer.
We first see Trogolo flex its larder with an aptly-named ‘cheese and pear’ dish: pear is served whole, and sweet like honey, alongside three varieties of pecorino, ranging from a young, buttery number to a mature, Herculean chunk. Elsewhere, organic chicken is sourced from Lara’s brother’s farm in Devon, and braised in a simple, sultry butter sauce, before being sprinkled with crispy sage leaves. It’s all faultless, and the classy cooking continues with a wild boar pappardelle, gently softened with a hint of cocoa.
In true Tuscan style, bread has a strong presence on the menu. A garlicky kale and cannellini bean crostini is topped up tableside with a generous glug of olive oil, from Lara and Giovanni’s home in Tuscany; another is smothered in gorgonzola, offset with more of that delicious pear and earthy walnuts. The authenticity never strays and dessert is the real deal - a handful of almond-studded biscuits, dunked in sweet wine are a joyous crescendo.
Perhaps what we can glean from Trogolo’s slice of Tuscany, is that the formula for a perfect restaurant is often the simplest. Great food, great wine and great people are all it takes.