The overwrought Almodóvar-esque styling of the Covent Garden original has been toned down at Salvador & Amanda’s offshoot in Bloomsbury. Open until 2.30am when DJs play at weekends, this duplex feels as if it belongs in a three-star Palma Nova hotel. The well-judged Spanish wine list offers a zingy Basque white (£26.50) and premium Priorat (£34), as well as Cava and a terse selection of sherries, while cerveza drinkers get draught Mahou and a range of bottled beers. The 12-strong cocktail line-up also has some Iberian notes such as a passion fruit and Valencia mandarin mule. Fine Ibérico ham and classic tapas – albondigas, garlic chilli prawns, tortilla – are peppered with modern flourishes ranging from chorizo lollipops with quince aïoli to a special of smoked monkfish with gooseberries and pancetta. Y Viva España? Up to a point.