Sael

In response to sky-rocketing costs that have priced out many from London’s dining scene, Sael represents a new direction from Michelin-starred Jason Atherton, one where wallet-friendly menus take centre stage.

Despite that, nothing about this restaurant feels budget. The upscale brasserie-style dining room impresses immediately, with expansive ceilings and softly glowing chandeliers. We take a seat on plush green leather banquettes, under artistic prints of the four seasons. A dramatic flower arrangement in autumnal tones echoes the restaurant’s namesake, the Old English word for ‘season’.

We delve into flavours of autumn, crafted by Dale Bainbridge, Atherton’s long-time collaborator at Pollen Street Social. The main menu is a la carte giving you freedom to choose as you wish, but we’d be remiss not to recommend you start with the laminated brioche boule - flaky with its croissant-like layers, doused in large salt crystals, and served alongside airy whipped onion butter.

A range of snacks will set you off on the right footing, seeing old favourites returning from Atherton’s repertoire. A marmite custard tart is frankly the stuff of dreams; a crisp, crême-brulée lid and a hefty dose of caviar covers the delicate bite-sized treat; a creamy filling, emboldened by rich umami flavours. Tempura rock oysters are another highlight - there are many - topped with Sarson’s ‘scraps’ - a nostalgic nod to seaside chippies with their salt-and-vinegar tang.

The menu continues with an array of exceptional comfort foods which on their own would probably leave many a punter more than satisfied. We made our way through a doughy lamb ‘donner’ flatbread, wood-fired roasted figs paired with creamy stracciatella and cobnut hummus, and a plump Orkney scallop on a bed of smoky leeks. A 100-layer snail and ox-cheek lasagne, perhaps puts the focus on concept rather than flavour, but it’s hearty and warming, nonetheless.

Sael showcases the very best of Britain - there’s even a framed photo of David Beckham in the toilets - from its mission to keep ingredients local, to the expertly recommended wine from London Cru, bottled mere miles away.

Whilst it probably won’t make its way onto any ‘cheap eats’ guides, for this quality you’d expect to pay a whole load more. Sael is leading the charge in high-class, affordable dining, offering a luxurious yet accessible experience that feels fresh and exciting. We’re sold.

Sael opens in Summer 2024

Located at 1 Carlton Street in St James’s Market, Sael is an affordable British brasserie unconstrained by stuffy fine dining principles. Sael follows a farm-to-fork philosophy, championing short supply lines and the natural quality of British Isles produce.

It occupies the 9,088-square-foot former Aquavit restaurant site in the heart of St James’ Market, a redeveloped area and former Medieval cattle market which now hosts a number of nationally recognised restaurants, hotels, and cafes just minutes from Picadilly. The concept is partly inspired by the aftermath of the pandemic and functions not simply as a place to eat, but as a destination for both tourists and Londoners to relax in a carefully curated atmosphere with superb food and excellent drinks.

It comes to us from chef-restauranteur Jason Atherton and his wife Irha. Atherton has accumulated experience in some of the world’s most revered kitchens, notably as executive chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin-starred Maze in London, and various accolades won in his own right both at Pollen Street Social and City Social. But unlike the Social Company restaurants - both known for sophisticated modern fare - Sael offers a programme of dishes composed solely of ingredients sourced from the British Isles at more approachable prices.

At the helm in the kitchen is Dale Bainbridge, who has spent over a decade at Atherton’s Michelin-star restaurant Pollen Street Social. However, this is not a just relaunch of the popular Mayfair joint. And it’s not just the menu that is home-grown. The restaurant also serves as a tribute to British music icons both past and present, so keep an eye out for some familiar faces. Plus, all the furnishings and decor come from domestic artisans and suppliers.