Roketsu

To understand what makes Roketsu special, it’s important to really grasp what kaiseki is. Yes, it’s a beautiful, seasonal multi-course dinner, but the core of kaiseki is as much about hospitality and respect for the earth as it is about the food.

The dining room itself is minimal, lending focus to the exquisite food and service. The long wooden counter makes up the focal point of the room, and chefs busy themselves quietly with prep on the other side, whilst a charcoal grills ticks away gently in the corner. It’s all very meditative. The wood used to make Roketsu’s beautiful hinoki counter, for example, is over 400 years old - one can’t help but feel rooted in the magnitude of that when each dish is placed upon it.

From the moment you step through the sliding wooden door into the dining room, it’s clear that Roketsu is something special and unique. The team here moves like a well oiled machine, gliding around each other with grace, managing to be attentive without being overbearing.

Kaiseki menus should be a reflection of a moment in time. April in Japan is cherry blossom season, so the meal starts with cherry blossom sake, and a white asparagus veloute that has an amazing clarity of flavour. More highlights include a magnificent sashimi platter, and a broth of red mullet and sakura leaf with ginger and burdock. Cornish brill - licked by smoke from the grill - is nicely accompanied by a tang of rhubarb. Compared to the rest of the meal, a dessert of mango pudding and pink grapefruit sorbet feels ever so slightly like an afterthought, but the sorbet has a stunning purity that changes our minds instantly.

For £190 a head, this might be the bare minimum you expect. That sort of price puts Roketsu in rarified air with all but the most expensive in London - on food alone you might find more exciting, interesting options, but as a complete experience, Roketsu is certainly worth a visit.

Roketsu is a slick, luxury Japanese restaurant in Marylebone that celebrates kappo-style dining, bringing a fresh interpretation of Japanese culinary tradition to New Quebec Street. Kappo, meaning ‘to cut and to cook,’ is rooted in the intimate relationship between chef and guest, and Roketsu embraces this spirit by encouraging diners to shape their own menu through direct interaction with the kitchen team.

The new format offers a flexible, personalised experience that blends the elegance of omakase with the freedom of à la carte. Guests can build their meal from categories including raw, grilled, sushi and tempura, with dishes crafted daily around seasonal British produce and premium Japanese ingredients. Expect refined small plates like Miso Monaka with foie gras, or Cornish Crab Chawanmushi, alongside standout nigiri such as Otoro Tartare Gunkan with caviar, and Wagyu Sukiyaki Gunkan with egg yolk. Grilled dishes cooked over bincho charcoal and straw fire add a theatrical flourish, with highlights including Japanese Wagyu with yuzu oroshi and Cornish white fish with nori sauce.

The restaurant’s redesign enhances the kappo experience, with a seven-metre hinoki counter for chef interaction, new table seating, and a relaxed lower-ground dining space. A private room for up to eight offers a discreet setting for business or special occasions.

Interiors, crafted by Kyoto master builder Sotoji Nakamura, feature natural hinoki, chestnut and cedar, creating a serene, timeless atmosphere.

Roketsu’s drinks programme is equally ambitious, with over 500 wines, rare vintages, and a standout sake list representing all 47 Japanese prefectures. Wine and sake pairings are available to complement each bespoke meal.