Chourangi

Chourangi’s large glass frontage emits a golden creaminess from the interior that does not offend the eye, but draws it in. A medium sized dining room with a high ceiling and plenty of dark marble tables were predominantly occupied by families and young professionals. As we were welcomed and shown to our table, we walked past the well-stocked long bar, and could spy the kitchen window at its end, from which the gentle busyness of the kitchen could just be heard under the music’s bass.

Arriving first are the poppadoms which are small and come with a selection of chutneys, a lovely mint sauce with a fierceness to it and a smoky tomato chutney, they’re sweet and almost popcorn-like. Starters are a tandoori dish: the laal murgi kebab which was perfectly cooked, not a hint of dryness and delightfully spiced; and small plates: the chingri cutlet and jackfruit tikki, combining fruity flavours with goats cheese to create a creamy, mild experience.

A feast of main courses arrived, with a tiger prawn malai curry presented inside a coconut shell, a clear indication that this was a very coconutty dish; the kosha mangsho, slow roasted lamb that showcased cardamom flavours in exemplary style. Both these dishes demonstrated the value of one ingredient – coconut and cardamom – and accompanied it with complementary flavours to make it sing. We particularly enjoyed the aam-kasundi begun: aubergine wedges cooked in mango and mustard, consistently textured and fully flavoured (not easy with an aubergine).

Nor should you miss out on breads, the tandoori roti has an indulgent quality to it and the kalonji naan is wonderfully fluffy – it really did feel nice between the fingers.

Before departing and embracing the cool London air, we were treated to two desserts equally as refreshing. The sondesh puff was incredibly nutty, with a firm pastry base, the sweetness of the dates was brought out by the ice cream, which played a supporting role. The star of the show really was the mango bhapa doi, which was almost a reverse cheesecake, with less emphasis on the shortbread, a perfect palate cleanser.

Londoners are spoilt for choice when it comes to Indian restaurants, from street-food vendors to fine-dining establishments and everything in between. However it may have come to the attention of those well-versed in Indian cuisine that much of the country’s regional fare actually remains unrepresented. Chourangi seeks to fill this gap, bringing 300 year old Calcutta cuisine to the capital. 

Chourangi, named after a historic district of Calcutta, promises a menu of authentic food, drawing inspiration from the people and culinary traditions of the region. The concept comes from chef turned restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee, partnering with his dear friend Aditya Ghosh and a masterful brigade of chefs who lead the kitchen in delivering vibrant and flavour-packed plates. 

Guests can start with a selection of small plates such as banana flower croquettes with tamarind chutney, enoki mushroom bhaja, and prawn cutlets with mustard dip. Chourangi’s specials include signature dishes such as a tiger prawn moilee curry, and steamed seabass paturi. Elsewhere, you’ll find plenty of options straight from the tandoor grill - think kasundi paneer tikka, laal murgi kebab, and tandoori lamb chops which bring together Calcutta’s pickling five spices. 

Chourangi also offers an extensive selection of large plates and curries, which could include the likes of bungalow chicken curry in a cashew sauce, mango mustard aubergine and jackfruit, chicken, or lamb biryanis. Be sure to order a selection of naans and sides to complete the experience. 

Sweet treats play a large part of the menu, offering regional desserts of the area. Expect the likes of bhapa doi (steamed mango curd) or roshogullas (balls of cottage cheese served with thick caramelised milk). Guests can also enjoy a pistachio and saffron kulfi with roasted almonds or coconut ice cream, making for the perfect palate cleansers at the end of the meal.