In an ideal spot on the Penarth promenade with views out over the Bristol Channel towards Minehead, a serious attempt has clearly been made to entice diners from the local area to the sole restaurant in the Cardiff area with obvious aspirations to a Michelin star. The tasting menu is introduced on the website as “ A bespoke menu created for each and every table”, so, as is our wont when trying a restaurant for the first time, we opted for the nine-course “Surprize” taster. The “snippets” to begin with were actually reasonably large portions of garlic espuma with a sprinkling of various seeds, tapioca crisps with taramasalata, and cheese gougères. The first starter, pea ravioli with parmesan foam, sage leaves and a warm pea purée was nicely set off by warm serrano ham crisps, and this was followed by a selection of heritage carrots, some pickled, burrata and a seed granola, simple ingredients combining well to make a nice starter. The butter-poached lobster in its sweetcorn and lobster velouté with broccoli and carrot coils was successful, but the celeriac linguine with pork crumbs and creamy roasted shallots, added to the ingredients in the previous dishes gave us the feeling that things were becoming a bit over-veggy. The West Wales brill with brill foam, Jersey royals, well-crisped and seasoned kale and a touch of salsify was fine, but the local aged sirloin in red wine jus was rather outshone by the oxtail. We moved on to the palate cleanser of kalamansi lime, sharp crumbs of meringue, citrus cake and orange blossom, which did its job well and then the first dessert proper, which was a deconstructed tarte tatin with solidified toffee. It was at this point that we felt the effect of the size of the portions and regretfully declined the second dessert. We were not moved to make this somewhere that we would definitely return to, and when we subsequently checked the à la carte menu we were disappointed to find that each and every one of the dishes we’d been served was there - perhaps we misunderstood the meaning of “bespoke”?