Russell Norman’s original Soho take on a Venetian bàcaro (a humble venue for simple food and drink) has spawned siblings and imitators across London, with this Brighton newcomer the latest in the sibling department. The genre-defining mix of ‘rough edges’, brick walls and deliberately scuffed plaster, with brown-paper menus and glass tumblers atop worn tables are all here, as well as red velvet curtains, a zinc-topped bar and linen-draped lamps. The restaurant provides food from breakfast to dinner, with Polpo signatures such as small plates of gooey arancini or chicken liver crostini followed by pork and fennel meatballs, pizzetta bianca or slices of flank steak – lucky Brighton.
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