The Set

Brighton isn’t short of great restaurants, but even in this eclectic city there’s nothing quite like The Set. Dan Kenny’s moody restaurant lies out of the city centre towards Preston Park, but make the journey north and you’ll find one of the most unique, ambitious restaurants anywhere in the UK.

The rustic, dimly-lit interiors and mismatched furniture have quite a unique vibe and if you’re longing for a restaurant that is warm, cosy and inviting, The Set may not be to your tastes. That said, there’s a special resourcefulness happening here that is worthy of note - the space doubles up as a cafe during the day, but The Set takes over on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings with a unique, Asian-flecked tasting menu. Dan and sous chef Marcin dive in and out of the tiny kitchen during service, using a small barbecue outside to cook many of the dishes.

Given the limited capacity of the restaurant and equipment, some of the food they turn out is remarkable. A handful of single bite snacks set the scene, including a crispy oyster katsu and a clever combination of beef with a bearnaise croquette. The Set is all about big, bold flavours and from here, the menu doesn’t let up, from the intense, delicious scallop tikka masala to comforting chocolate and miso pudding at the end. There’s a danger of The Set being all brawn and no brains, but there’s clever thinking on the menu too, as shown by a bread course of milk bread and cheese burger butter, and a Delica pumpkin pre-dessert.

With only a handful of tables, very rustic interiors and a single sitting on three evenings a week, The Set might not coalesce with exactly what everyone looks for in a restaurant. If what you care about is great food, we’d recommend you book a table - you won’t be disappointed.

The Set in Brighton is an intimate dining experience, serving daily-changing, blind tasting menus across a 12-seat counter. 

One of Brighton's most unique restaurants, the restaurant is run by chefs Dan Kenny and Marcin Miasik. The pair have cooked together for over a decade across a series of pop-ups and residencies, before 9 Preston Road became their first permanent spot. Together they cook a distinct tasting menu each night, but there's no menu - instead, dishes for each night are decided from day-to-day, based on what produce is at its best. As a guest, all you have to do is turn up and you'll be looked after from start to finish, with the meal comprising of anywhere between 12 and 15 courses. 

As a result, there's not much we can tell you about the menu. Our experience of The Set from previous pop-ups is that Dan and Marcin cook with a bold, globe-trotting style, with dishes that flit from crispy oyster katsu and scallop tikka masala to beef and bearnaise croquette. There's a distinct Asian influence across many dishes, but the beauty of The Set is in the freedom that Dan and Marcin give themselves to take great produce, and deliver delicious cooking without boundaries.

As well as the signature £99 Full Set Menu served Thursday-Saturday, The Set also offers a 6-8 course midweek affordable dining (MAD) menu for just £45 on a Wednesday, designed for those looking to experience The Set in a more relaxed format. The Set shares the space with Masu - a Japanese dining concept run by Tony Tsang; Masu looks after food from Sunday to Tuesday, offering a la carte sushi on Sundays, and an izakaya-style menu on Mondays and Tuesdays. 

The interiors are sleek and cosy. The restaurant comprises of a single 12-seat wood counter, from behind which Dan, Marcin and restaurant manager Georgie cook and serve all the courses. Not only is The Set a unique food experience, it's also intimate, with guests able to see the chefs cooking up close and personal. The set also has a no-phone policy, where guests are asked to put their phones away for the entirety of the meal.