Plates

Cutting out animal products, gluten and refined sugar would be an inconvenience to many. To others, it might be an interesting challenge. To Kirk Haworth, it was a revelation. Having travelled the world cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants, a diagnosis of Lyme Disease sent the chef on an altogether different journey, one of balance, well-being and medicinal plant research. Diners can now get a taste of his innovative plant-based cooking at Plates.

The first thing you notice is that there isn’t a drop of colour in the whole space. Or rather, there wasn’t, until two orange margaritas graced our table, supercharged by a kick of chilli. Palates engaged by the cocktails, we told the staff we were ready to start.

Haworth’s eye for detail quickly became apparent. A humble, albeit delicious, pea and potato fritter was elevated to new heights by a bed of tangy tartare sauce ajo blanco, while a dollop of seaweed caviar on top brought a welcome touch of salinity. Even the house bread was stellar, especially when slathered with silky smooth, fragrant carrot jam. Haworth’s pièce de résistance, however, was an ensemble cast.

Barbecued kalibos cabbage took centre stage, doused with a rich red wine reduction. Tempeh, often disappointing, here came as a gloriously nutty, crumbly ingot, while a sliver of confit lion’s mane mushroom felt like a scientific discovery, almost akin to seared mackerel. The final touch was a diametrically opposed duo: velvety cauliflower puree and sharp sweet and sour plum.

Having read ‘tiramisu’ on the menu, we thought the surprises would be over. Instead, we were given an unforgettable deconstruction featuring dandelion root ice cream, sour cherry and amaretto. With spot-on natural wine pairings from the deeply knowledgeable staff, this isn't a meal you could soon forget.

Don’t let the monochrome setting fool you, this is some of the most vibrant and exciting cooking we’ve had all year.

Plates is a pioneer of plant-based food in London. The kitchen is headed up by chef Kirk Haworth and inspired by his own personal health journey, its food ethos is rooted in a desire to create high-end, creative and boundary-pushing dishes without having to rely on animal products. By combining old world training with new world techniques, the team at Plates strive to create never-seen-before dishes that impress and surprise every diner who tries them.

Kirk Haworth has spent over 16 years working at Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, including at The French Laundry, Restaurant Sat Bains, The Square and Northcote. His inspiration for Plates came when he was diagnosed with Lyme Disease in 2016. After discovering that a diet without meat, gluten, refined sugar or dairy reduced the intensity of his symptoms, there was no looking back.  

Sustainability is a huge priority for the team and the menu changes regularly in line with the seasons. Diners can either opt for the set tasting menu or a more informal a la carte bar snacks menu. If you go for the former, dishes you might try include barbecued pink fur potato with parsley and watercress, coconut butter, crispy shallots and seaweed caviar, lightly smoked tomatoes with house ricotta, wild garlic velouté and chervil, and tiramisu with sour cherry and amaretto to finish.  

The bar snacks menu, meanwhile, might feature potato croquettes with jalapeño mayo and salt and vinegar wakame, or tempura salt and pepper purple sprouting broccoli with furikake and five spice mayo. 

On the drinks side of things, Untitled bar delivers the goods. Expect exciting cocktails like orange margaritas and heather negronis, alongside a carefully selected list of European natural wines. For the full experience, wine pairings are available to accompany the tasting menu as a half or full flight.