Queue, pay, take a buzzer and grab a stool: the concept isn’t new, but Pizza Union’s food is of a quality that defies its low-price, no-frills delivery. As with the Spitalfields original, this newcomer makes you question how some other fast-food outfits can charge so much for so little. The 12-inch pizzas have a thin, crisp base and piles of topping; from 15 options we chose a delicious, filling Tropicali with cotto ham and pineapple (£5.50), accompanied by a fresh, hearty Pizzeria salad. The warm dough-ring desserts alone are worth the visit, filled with Nutella, mascarpone or salted caramel which ooze out as you bite. To drink, help yourself to wines, Italian beer, Prosecco, juices or coffees. A pop-led soundtrack and communal bench-style tables clad in colourful tiles add to the vibrant buzz. If this outlet indicates the state of the Union, expect more branches to appear – and deservedly so.
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