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Matt Gillan made his name and won a Michelin star at The Pass in Horsham before opening this beautiful venue with a split personality. During the day, it trades as Red Roaster – a relaxed coffee shop/café serving pimped-up brunch dishes such as lobster bao and tea-cured salmon. By night it becomes Pike & Pine – a full-blown fine-dining restaurant with pumped-up prices to match. It's a clever trick that makes the most of the glamorous marble-and-gold dining room, which comes festooned with leafy plants that bask in natural light from large ceiling windows. In the open kitchen, Gillan's cooking is also designed to dazzle, with six- or eight-course tasting menus promising an adventure in texture, flavour and technique. Underwhelming snacks aside (we're looking at you, charcoal-covered potato), there were plenty of thrills when we visited, including braised ox tongue topped with quail's egg and refreshing celery sorbet, plus a fun take on carbonara – spaghetti-like enoki mushrooms wrapped in Parma ham and topped with a gooey egg yolk. Horsham's loss is Brighton's gain.
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