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Occupying a long, low whitewashed thatched building in the middle of a tiny, well-heeled Cambridgeshire village, this amenable foodie destination still has its full quota of rustic beams and open fires – although the food is imaginative, sure-footed stuff packed with cosmopolitan flavours from the Med and beyond. Crispy Portland crab cakes come with broad bean relish, Cornish lamb is char-grilled and served with rösti, beetroot, courgettes provençale and mint sauce, while roast corn-fed chicken appears with garlic mash, rainbow chard, creamed savoy cabbage and prosciutto. There are also plenty of no-nonsense ‘traditional classics’ for those who prefer bowls of Exmouth mussels, ploughman’s or Jimmy Butler’s free-range pork sausages with mash and onion relish, while puds promise anything from apple and blackberry crumble to raspberry bavarois with elderflower jelly. Former owner John Hoskins MW oversees the grown-up 100-bin wine list, which offers bags of top-class drinking. The bar area is “especially friendly”, say fans.
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