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Polished and sprawling, this vast, all-wood space in what was once the Middlesex Hospital (although you wouldn’t know it) packs a comforting restorative punch with its “wholesome food”. The all-day menu majors in casual-dining classics: gooey-centred Scotch egg, Kilner jars of crab, apple and celeriac, braised beef rib and gravy, venison shepherd’s pie, and at least five cuts of Josper-grilled steak. Desserts at Percy & Founders show more innovation, although the likes of white chocolate mousse overwhelmed by lurid basil sorbet are no better for it. Service (smart-casual, like the setting) comes with a chat and a smile, while 10 ‘sharpeners’ (perhaps a geographically apposite Fizz Rovia) kick off a compact wine list priced just right for an egalitarian clientele. Terraces offer views of the old hospital chapel, while chef’s tables by the open kitchen are a boon for groups.
020 3761 0200
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