In a city where a new restaurant opens its doors every other day, it pays to be different, and Stevie Parle and Luke Ahearne’s Motorino is a self-confessed rule-breaker. Their stylish London-Italian restaurant on Marylebone’s Pearson Square offers a bold, uber-contemporary take on Italian dining, with a kitchen run by a Michelin-starred chef (Luke was previously head chef at Lita).
Still, if you’re the type of diner who values experience as much as great food, you’re in for a treat. Motorino is all about vibes. The retro-futuristic dining room feels like a 70s furniture showroom caught in a time warp, all high-gloss, curved edges and wood panelling, offset by bright reds, yellows and greens. A trademark feature is the open kitchen, viewable through a huge, pill-shaped window. If this were a Dua Lipa album, it would be titled Future Nostalgia.
The food also employs a heavy dose of creative license. On the outset, the menu looks typically Italian – there are starters, primi, mains and dolci – but Ahearne injects rebellious twists into seemingly classic dishes. Carbonara swaps spaghetti for dinky agnolotti with a smoky, creamy filling, while ‘Gigli al Gin’ offers a twist on vodka pasta fleshed out with gnarly hunks of fennel sausage. The size-to-price ratio of the pasta list is a little off, with most north of £20, but they’re also some of the strongest dishes on the menu.
Mains revolve around deftly-cooked pieces of fish and meat, from fatty, pink slices of ribeye in a boozy peppercorn sauce, to crisp-skinned sea bass with caponata-style vegetables and a mellow shellfish sauce. We’d skip the tiramisu for Ahearne’s lip-smacking Amalfi lemon meringue pie, deconstructed into complimentary layers of citrus, sugary meringue and rich biscuit.
These guys don’t mess about with the cocktail list either. Max-strength Martinis, Negronis and ‘Chargers’ form the bulk of the menu, or there’s a confidently-honed wine list featuring 10 reds, 10 whites, and a single rose dubbed ‘The only rosé you’ll ever need’. You’ve been told.
We’re big fans of Motorino’s sense of fun, and while it might still be figuring out the odd dish, the vision is undeniably strong. So far, we like what we see.