Pasero

Pasero’s big street-facing windows look very inviting as you walk past - flickers of candlelight and cheeriness shine through, compelling you to press your face against the window like a chilly street urchin on Christmas Eve. The inside is just as appealing - Pasero is spacious and has a modern bistro charm to it, combining plush banquettes and sleek wooden furnishings. On the right, a fetching forest green bar provides a home for counter diners and drinkers, and there’s a mini grocery and wine shop too, ticking all the boxes for this do-it-all neighbourhood restaurant.

Former Peckham Cellars chef Henry Freestone is currently manning the stoves for a three month residency so there’s a good chance that the menu will change, but his cooking suits this spot very nicely indeed. There are plates of fennel salami and artichoke hearts, fabulous sourdough with whipped thyme and garlic butter, and a gorgeous creamy burrata with green sauce to dive into, all ably accompanied by good cocktails (and a particularly lovely, on-trend negroni sbagliato). 

The rest of the sharing plate menu leans towards interesting plant-based dishes. Soft butter beans arrive with Jerusalem artichokes, wilted cavolo nero and a hefty glug of good olive oil and sauce - a reminder of how good legumes can be. Likewise, crispy golden potatoes come with a good squeeze of aioli and are quickly consumed. There are four vegetarian dishes on the menu and though perfectly delicious eaten on their own, they also make good accompaniments to meat and fish dishes. We tried a tranche of Dover sole with capers and dill and it was perfectly cooked, the meaty flesh sliding gracefully from the bone.

There is an element of ease at Pasero that works in two directions. This sort of eating is a lovely convivial experience but some cooks may feel that they can do something similar at home, save perhaps for the excellent fish cookery. Still, Pasero doesn’t break the bank by any means, and it’s great value for cooking of this quality. As neighbourhood restaurants go, Pasero has it sussed.

Following great success hosting regular supper clubs in her local area, Genevieve Sparrow made the plunge and opened up her own neighbourhood café and wine bar in Tottenham. The café is open all day long, serving hot drinks, pastries, and a small breakfast menu in the morning, sandwiches at lunchtime (to eat in or takeaway), and small plates and drinks in the evenings, ‘transforming into an intimate bar and restaurant’.

The venue focuses on creating menus and dishes built around seasonal ingredients and European flavours, featuring high-quality meats, as well as vegetarian and vegan options. Dishes you can expect at Pasero are varied and flavourful, including cauliflower and tahini croquette with Hungarian black chilli, and ossobuco of Monkfish with haricot beans and green sauce.

The small plates served up in the evening mean that diners can drop by for a glass of wine and a little nibble, or order several plates and have a full meal at Pasero. If you’re planning to visit Pasero with little ones for dinner, there’s also a children’s menu with some more low-key options for those who are a touch on the fussy side. Weekends at Pasero mean brunch, where there are plenty of brunch classics to fuel your day, including vegetarian and vegan options.

As for drinks, there is a selection of natural wines on offer, as well as classic cocktails, craft beers, and a range of ‘grown-up’ soft drinks. If you pop by to Pasero without the time to sit down and dine, you can choose to takeaway, including buying its wine bottles to sample at home.

Pasero’s ethos is one of sustainability and social responsibility, with great care taken to minimise food waste and plastic usage.

If you’re in the market for a local, independent neighbourhood café, which serves up changing seasonal dishes in a cosy and unique setting, it might be worth heading down to Pasero.