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Chef Stevie Parle (Dock Kitchen, Craft London and Rotorino) fattens up his London restaurant portfolio with his all-day Italian, open from breakfast until dinner. Housed on the bottom floor of an office block (spy the desk-dwellers by the loos), the buzzy space is brightened with industrial-style lighting and light-yellow booths. The open kitchen boasts a pasta machine and stone oven, which both inform the menu: freshly-made gnocchi alla Romana is a buttery, melt-in-the-mouth delight, while ravioli parcels concealing spinach and squash make for a great lighter alternative. Main courses failed to impress on our visit, however. Bland-tasting chicken, pancetta and pistachio meatballs seemed undercooked, while fried gnocchi made for a too-tough side dish. Desserts are certainly worth a splurge though, such as an indulgent chocolate sponge peppered with the crunch of pistachio and honeycomb. Attentive staff and a 45-bin Italian wine list (each available by the glass) also impress. Our advice? Skip the mains and focus on the delicious antipasti and pastas.
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