Mayfair’s dining scene has long been Samyukta Nair’s playground. Between Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Thai ventures, her restaurant empire seems to be ever-expanding, now adding Italian to its ranks with Nipotina, a relaxed neighbourhood spot that brings the warmth of nonna's kitchen with a touch of W1 sophistication.
The design walks that line perfectly. Soft curves, pale tones and muted pink limewash walls make the space feel calm, while deep olive banquettes and potted greenery lend a quiet Mediterranean ease. The dining room stretches further than the eye can see, with glossy burgundy tiles that contrast the otherwise matte interiors. As the sun sets, the room transforms - lights dim, chatter builds, and the space slips seamlessly from casual aperitivo spot to the perfect date-night hideaway.
In the kitchen, chef Somaia Hammad draws from her Turinese roots, reimagining family recipes that feel both familiar and sophisticated. Quality shines through: pastas are handcrafted, ingredients are authentic, the cooking is excellent. ‘Nduja arancini arrive perfectly gold and crisp, revealing molten mozzarella insides, whilst burrata oozes over tender artichoke hearts, glistening with mint oil.
Assured cooking continues with a crab linguine - silky strands of al dente pasta tangled with generous flakes of sweet white crab, chilli heat and a touch of parsley. Whilst we could have easily gotten lost in the pasta portion of the menu, a fillet of grilled seabass is equally worth an order - its crisp skin scored by neat char lines, topped with roast courgette slices and laced with mint and garlic.
In our opinion, every good restaurant should bring a touch of tableside flair, and Nipotina is no exception. A homemade Negroni - a must order - is punched up with Earl Grey and poured tableside from a clay pot over sprigs of rosemary. But the real spectacle arrives at dessert. The Dolce Vita trolley is wheeled out, laden with Italian pudds and digestifs. Tiramisu here breaks tradition, swapping mascarpone for a rich and nutty gianduia cream, whilst Nonna Lina’s ricotta tart is impossibly light, encased in a delicate pastry and bright with lemon. It’s the type of dessert you’ll keep absent-mindedly nibbling, one forkful at a time until there’s nothing left.
Nipotina feels built for long, lingering evenings, with comforting classics, welcoming service and the kind of neighbourhood price point feels insanely good value for money – especially in this part of the capital.