Jamaican jerk meat platters and killer cocktails in Dalston, or Southern US-style BBQ food and, um, killer cocktails in Soho? Decisions, decisions… Allow us to fill you in on two of London’s newest openings, Rudie’s and Shotgun.
Rudie’s, 50 Stoke Newington Road
If you fancy experiencing Jamaica via Dalston, this laid-back, good-looking and jerk-focused joint on Stoke Newington Road could be right up your street. The smoky aroma of jerked meat being grilled over charcoal and wood hits you as soon as you enter the casual, light-filled room. Two stylish, palm tree-like wooden installations catch the eye, while reggae provides the aural stimulation.
Dutiful staff take you through the menu: bammy bruschetta is cassava pounded into a hard, starchy patty and scattered with salt-cod, perfectly paired with fresh coriander; mini patties are filled with jerk chicken, curried goat, vegetables or lobster; calamari gets the jerk treatment with a coriander and lime dip. We went for the ‘Ya Man!’ jerk platter, comprising chicken, pork and lamb, served with a choice of increasingly hot sauces. Moreish slices of lightly spiced and tender lamb sat alongside meagre, bone-filled chicken and too-fatty pork (we wondered whether sticking to just one type of meat rather than the platter would have produced more satisfying cuts).
An expensive rum cake dessert was fine but very small, leaving the bar to provide the fun via a stellar range of rums, cocktails (sugary and fiery) and international wines. The ‘tek it easy mon’ outlook may be a useful ethos for Londoners to follow, but Rudie’s shouldn’t relax until value improves here.
Shotgun, 26 Kingly Street
Mississippian Brad McDonald has beaten a path from The Lockhart in Marylebone to this second, more lithe location in Soho – bringing his smokin’, US-style meat wagon with him. Although you can expect a whole new menu, Shotgun’s mission mirrors that of its successful elder sibling: the provision of quality soul food. The venue is named after the long, narrow houses of the southern USA where a bullet could be fired from the front door straight through and out the back – though shooting isn’t recommended here, unless it’s at the bar. The premises are indeed long, narrow and cramped (enthused and efficient staff often have no choice but to sit with you to take orders), yet also intimate, classy and grown up: dark woods, leather and wrought iron abound.
Meat sourced from across the globe dominates the ever-changing menu. The good-value set meal combines firm and plump USDA beef brisket, pork belly and Muscovy duck breast with a choice of two side dishes: go for smoky barbecue baked beans and a light, tangy potato salad to counter the heavier meat dishes. Whole pig’s ear in a sticky treacle sauce makes a fun and surprisingly appetising side plate, while trifle-like banana pudding is the best dessert (portions are served from a glass bowl in creamy dollops at the table).
The food won’t set the world alight, but that’s not the point; Shotgun’s punchy cocktails, Italian wines on tap and lively bar make it a gimmick-free, canny choice for a cosy date or dinner with friends.
If that’s left you all fired up for a barbecue dinner, check out this week’s SquareReel News video, filmed on location at Shotgun…
…and click here for Square Meal’s list of the best US-style restaurants in London.
This article was published on 23 October 2015