Named after a 17th century Indian botany catalogue, this well-heeled and ambitious newcomer follows a Brits-discovering-India theme and runs with it – occasionally in baffling directions.
Overlooking Old Brompton Road’s traffic maelstrom, Flora Indica’s beautifully appointed ground floor dining room is dressed with tweed, maroon leather, aluminium tiling and marble table-tops. At the entrance stands a Doctor Who-style police box, watched over by a collection of steam-punk mice characters. There is an explanation for this but herein lies the baffling aspect; thankfully it’s a non-intrusive and somewhat fun aspect too.
The menu is inspired by the period that introduced kedgeree, piccalilli relish and the G&T to Britain, with a gin-heavy cocktail list to match including the Calcutta Collins, mixing green tea, rosemary and sage syrup with coconut water. A menu of European standards is peppered with Indian flavours, such as ham terrine spiced with achar piccalilli, or smoked venison with a side of masala-spiced new potatoes. Our 63°c duck egg starter was curious and appealing: an oozing egg cooked sous vide, atop smokey mayonnaise and surrounded by shards of spiced potato crisp, blending to create a gently flavoured mix of textures. A grilled aubergine dish paired with fried balls of cumin and masala paneer was another tasty balance of textures, while the smoked venison smelt inedible and indicates serious room for improvement. Judging by the overall quality, refinement and happy diners we witnessed, such missteps are likely teething problems that will be ironed out.
Refreshingly different desserts include tonka bean custard with smoked figs and beetroot jam doughnuts with juniper cream, each paired with an optional dessert wine. The wine list skips around the globe offering plenty of choice in every price bracket, while the food prices creep towards special occasion territory.
With a larger, equally chic dining room in the basement with a cocktail bar and booths tucked beneath vaults, Flora Indica ticks a lot of boxes and is a welcome touch of class for the area. If the restaurant can address a few food issues and communicate its muddled concept successfully, it deserves to succeed.
Find out more and book a table at Flora Indica here
This article was published 2 August 2016