With plenty of new openings to tuck into, there was little chance of the SquareMeal team having many nights at home this month. We’ve picked four of our favourite new eating spots that are definitely worth trying. Browse our shortened reviews below, then click through to read more on each and book a table.
Brat, Shoreditch (top)
Our verdict: Former Kitty Fisher’s chef Tomos Parry has opened one of 2018’s most talked-about venues: a Med-influenced hotshot housed above Thai-focused Smoking Goat. The speciality turbot is cooked Basque-style in a cage over a wood grill until the flesh almost melts; small plates include roast oysters with pickled seaweed and smoked cod’s roe on toast.
Our menu pick: Grilled bread – like a puffed-up naan, slathered with oil, flecked with chives and draped with three intensely flavoured anchovies.
Where: 64 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JJ
Freak Scene, Soho
Our verdict: Kurobuta founder Scott Hallsworth is back with this ‘pop up gone permanent’ pan-Asian outfit. You’ll find some of Kurobuta’s greatest hits (the salmon sashimi ‘pizza’ remains as riotously flavoured as ever) alongside the likes of black cod and sushi rice tacos. Prices are fair, but trying the wine selection will bump up your bill considerably.
Our menu pick: The meltingly soft grilled aubergine, offset by the crunch of caramelised walnuts.
Where: 54 Frith Street, W1D 4SL
Our verdict: Nieves Barragán Mohacho was the breakout star of Barrafina, and now she’s opened her first solo restaurant, Sabor. The kitchen here turns out a run of Spanish-accented treats such as oil-soaked pan con tomate topped with cured meat, and piquillo croquetas set off with fine shavings of Manchego cheese.
Our menu pick: The sinfully rich bombas de tres chocolates, a trio of doughnuts dolloped with chocolate and coffee sauces.
Where: 35 Heddon Street, W1B 4BS
Scully, St James’s
Our verdict: This debut from ex-Nopi head chef Ramael Scully has a communal vibe thanks to a large sharing table, but the chef’s counter is undoubtedly home to the best seats in the house. Highlights from an intriguing international menu include barbecued beef tendons with smoky oyster mayo, and monkfish rubbed with tongue-tingling sambal belacan.
Our menu pick: The bitter grapefruit sorbet paired with a scoop of indulgent caramel ice cream – a delightful mix of sweet and sour.
Where: 4 St James’s Market, SW1Y 4AH