Supposedly, Italian joint Negroni’s is looking to coax guests through its doors via what has become one of the most fashionable cocktails in the city (where was this bright orange drink 10 years ago?). And, as self-confessed Negroni-lovers, the tactic worked.
To that point, a quick, courteous perusal of the drink's menu was all we needed before ordering a couple of its classic Negronis - a true testament to the restaurant’s name. They were great, in short: bitter-sweet, fantastically neon and served over plenty of ice.
Once the pivotal part was over (does Negroni’s actually serve decent Negronis?!), we could relax and take in our surroundings. Dark and seductive interiors and a cool neighbourhood vibe are accentuated by bare brick walls, stool-high seats and hanging industrial light fittings. Cosy booths at the front of the restaurant overlook the open kitchen where you can watch chefs serve up luxurious plates while you sip on a cocktail, while the back of the restaurant offers more traditional tables and chairs.
There were high notes and perfectly-ok notes from the selection of dishes we ordered. Two fat mushroom arancini were satisfyingly hefty (if slightly stodgy), while pan-fried scallops served with butternut squash and crispy Guanciale delivered subtle flavours, excellent seasoning and artistic presentation. In fact, every dish we saw leave the pass was plated up with finesse - you know the sort of plates that earn you a decent number of likes on Instagram - and delivered to us with enthusiasm by jovial staff, who liked to assure us that we were going to 'love this one'. The focaccia was underwhelming and a little dry – a shame for any Italian spot - but quicky redeemed by a saucy bowl of gratifyingly al dente truffle cacio e pepe.
As far as restaurants in Soho go, it’s priced as one would expect. Small plates range between £6-32, while a plate of pasta is about 15 quid. Negroni’s might not be inventing the wheel, but its offering does appeal to the people: negronis, pasta, pizza and small plates - all served up with a healthy dose of Italian conviviality.