Even if you knew nothing about NAKIMUSHI's origin story, the latest red-hot venture from the team behind Dorian and Eel Sushi, the writing is very much on the timber-panelled walls at this townhouse Japanese restaurant. As an outsider looking in through its red-paned windows, the space is a vision of energy, as chefs slice, boil and grill ingredients in the open kitchen, while diners perch on stools, drunk on heady bowls of ramen and the fact that they managed to snag a seat at one of London's hottest reservations (be prepared to queue).
Ramen is the name of the game across both concepts, but the vibe morphs from an informal, energetic noodle bar downstairs to a more measured, but no less lively 'proper' restaurant above. We're booked into the dining room upstairs, a warm, cocooning space that brings together Japanese design and original features: think oxblood-hued tiles, timber panelling and parquet floors. It's a tight squeeze, with tables packed as closely as humanly possible without causing actual elbow grazing, but we get it; these guys have a business to run, and they clearly know what they're doing.
NAKIMUSHI's commitment to quality produce and seasonality has been borrowed from Dorian and Eel Sushi, but thankfully, the prices haven't. Pork chashu ramen will set you back just £10, while hot, freshly fried pieces of karaage chicken are an impossible £8, finished with a mellow chive pickle and sharp ponzu. Elsewhere, fat tuna rolls in a hibiscus and blackberry smacks with freshness, as do red prawn gyoza with crunchy slices of courgette and funky umeboshi.
As for the ramen, it is fantastic. The fundamentals are there – springy noodles with a pleasing chew immersed in a light, umami chicken broth – and adorned with unctuous, delicious things such as duck leg wontons and a jammy, soy-marinated egg. You could happily order one of these with a Shochu Highball and be on your way, or share one and save room for a signature main, including perfectly-cooked brill in a sticky-sweet red vinegar sauce.
NAKIMUSHI undoubtedly leads London's pack of trendiest restaurants, but we don't see the hype fizzling out anytime soon.