Mele e Pere

Old Soho-ites who bewail the steady erosion of their neighbourhood’s Italian character can take heart from Mele e Pere. This casual, confident bar-cum-restaurant delivers what its customers want, while pursuing its own lines of interest (three types of homemade vermouth, we’re looking at you). Ex-Arbutus chef Andrea Mantovani has “added a new dimension to the menu” with sharing starters such as rib-eye tartare and deep-fried squid with smoked aïoli. He doesn’t always play it straight, either – bigoli with spicy spianata salami and broad beans contrasts with the soothingly familiar “comfort food vibe” of risotto milanese. Mains tend to favour butch ideas such as veal chop with borettane onions or lamb’s heart with San Daniele ham and lentils, while acacia and rosemary gelato is a neat way of closing proceedings. Note that decibels can skyrocket in the basement.

In the heart of Soho, Mele e Pere brings the spirit of a northern Italian neighbourhood trattoria to one of London’s busiest dining districts. Founded by three brothers and a close friend, the restaurant is rooted in the kind of family-run places they grew up with: informal, ingredient-led and built around food that’s made properly, every day.

The setting immediately sets the tone. Rich red walls the colour of a good Chianti, low ceilings and vintage Italian details create a warm, intimate feel that suits both quick drop-ins and longer meals. The layout encourages flexibility: guests can stop by the ground-floor Spritz Bar for a glass of homemade vermouth and a few sharing plates, head downstairs to the atmospheric basement Cocktail Bar, or settle into the dining room to work through the menu at a slower pace.

As you might expect for an authentic Italian, Mele e Pere is all about the food. All pasta, pizza, focaccia, dolci and gelato are made in-house daily, with pizza dough proved for more than 48 hours. The menu is seasonal, combining carefully sourced British produce with exceptional Italian ingredients, and focuses on classic dishes made with love. Gluten-free pasta and pizza are available, alongside a good range of vegan options, so don’t be put off if you’re not their typical customer!

The menu kicks off with anti pasti favourites such as beef carpaccio with Parmigiano Reggiano, rocket and lemon; sea bream crudo with fennel and rosemary oil; or pork and fennel polpettine in San Marzano tomato sauce. Pasta is clearly a highlight with loads to choose from, between mafaldine with tomatoes, burrata and basil to pappardelle verdi with duck ragù and black truffle, alongside a butternut squash risotto with cavolo nero and hazelnut. Secondi dishes might look like pollo toscano served with roast potatoes and spinach, or cod alla puttanesca with fennel, olives and capers.

Pizza holds its own too, from a spicy diavola with salame and chilli to the bosciaiola topped with wild mushrooms. And, drinks are equally considered: Mele e Pere claims London’s largest selection of vermouths, including their own homemade version, and the wine list is exclusively Italian, with plenty available by the glass.