What was 3 Monkeys has now become Mela, which has sister branches on Shaftesbury Avenue & in Redhill. Diners still cross a walkway into the main dining room, which is warmed up with purple walls, sequinned hangings & jewel-coloured covers on straight-backed chairs. From the open kitchen at the back of the room, try a tandoor speciality such as spicy duck breast marinated in papaya & yoghurt or South Indian chicken chattinad, tempered with mustard seeds. Vegetarian dishes are myriad & clearly marked. There’s extra space downstairs for busy days, but the booths are cramped & en route to the loos: stay upstairs if possible.