Llewelyn's

Is there a better restaurant to enjoy the first sunny day of spring than Llewelyn’s? The expansive pavement terrace just outside the restaurant captures the early afternoon sun in all its glory. As we reach for a pair of sunglasses, we’re not surprised that Herne Hill-ers are so vociferous about Llewelyn’s being one of the capital’s most outstanding neighbourhood restaurants.

The excellence doesn’t rely on your bagging a popular outside table, though. Inside, the restaurant has a candlelit bistro vibe that is just as charming. Staff are upbeat but down-to-earth, just the right level of friendly and attentive. Whatever the ‘it’ factor is for a neighbourhood bistro, Llewelyn’s has it.

The menu reads as though someone smart has had a glance at the weather forecast, and we make a beeline for a gorgeous pile of poached artichokes, fennel and yellow courgette ribbons. It’s an assembly job but a very welcome one, tied together by a mellow lemon dressing that has us dreaming of summer. Llewelyn’s menu sounds simple enough, but pinpoint balance and execution really elevates dishes to next level status. Nowhere is this clearer than a plate of pollock with calcots and romesco sauce; it has the look of something a decent cook could pull off at home, but the devil is in the detail - the crisp on the fish skin gets full marks, and the blood red romesco is left rough and rustic, but packs bags of flavour.

Many restaurants fall at the final hurdle, clearly missing the expertise of a pastry chef, but Llewelyn’s is not that restaurant. We were right to save room, first for a rhubarb and custard choux bun the size of a cricket ball, filled generously with pistachio cream, then for a pleasingly dense wedge of Chocolate Nemesis - a River Cafe classic. In fact, Llewelyn’s does have something of the River Cafe about it, if you swapped Thames Path runners for Railton Road Lime Bikers. No wonder the good people of Herne Hill are so enamoured.

Llewelyn's is a cosy neighbourhood restaurant in Herne Hill, where diners can enjoy modern European fare and an up-to-date wine selection. With indoor and outdoor seating, this restaurant is well-suited to the changing of the seasons. Facing Brockwell Park and immersed in the farmers' market on Sundays, eating here is a true escape from the hustle and bustle of London, without actually leaving the city. 

The menu here showcases vibrant, simply prepared dishes, served unpretentiously by cheery staff. Snack on house pickles or oysters with rhubarb mignonette and sip on house cocktails while you examine the subsequent options. You might start off with spicy sobrasada on toast, topped with piquillo peppers and capers, or burrata with broad beans with preserved lemon and bottarga. 

These colourful creations continue into the main courses, where a vegetarian dish might be wild garlic spelt with courgettes, pesto and salted ricotta. Seafood options often include a bisque, perhaps with cod, grilled mussels and leeks and meatier mains might feature a duck breast with celeriac, oyster mushroom and dandelion. Elegant sides are present if needed, such as crushed winter roots with sage and brown butter, or a bitter leaf salad with sherry vinegar dressing. 

Finally, desserts keep with the theme of pseudo-British. You might see something more Italian, like affogato or blood orange and pistachio polenta cake, or a more native choice like rhubarb queen of puddings.

Wines here are split into sparkling, white, red, rose, skin contact, oxidative, fortified and sweet, so there's plenty of choice when it comes to grape and process. Softs include house ginger beer or sparkling elderflower, while there is a short selection of beers and ciders. The cocktail list is also concise, offering espresso martinis, contratto aperitif spritzes or negronis, and some spirits for those who like to keep it simple.