Located on the site of Foxtrot Oscar, Gordon Ramsay's third Maze Grill follows the successful formula established by the Mayfair original, serving up rare-breed steaks (from exemplary sources) alongside fish and poultry hot off the grill. Exposed brick walls, parquet floors, plump olive-green banquettes and wooden panelling create a chic yet casual setting, and it's worth bagging one of the basement booths if you're with friends. Light starters and small plates might bring seasonal asparagus with a golden egg and tangy purple mustard dressing, although sushi stole the show for us – translucent slices of scallop, dotted with salmon caviar and finished with shavings of frozen yuzu, for example. To follow, full-flavoured rare-breed sirloin, Herdwick lamb chops and the like are cooked precisely to order, sides turn comfort food into an art form, and fancy desserts offer even more temptation. There's also a well-matched wine list, from which the friendly staff are equipped to make recommendations.