Matt Worswick at the Latymer

Gold Award
1 Review
££££
Modern European

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SquareMeal Review of Matt Worswick at the Latymer

Gold Award

“My favourite outside London” says a fan of Pennyhill Park and its flagship Latymer restaurant. The elegant dining room has benefited hugely from a recent makeover, while fans think that chef Matt Worswick (one of SquareMeal’s ‘rising UK stars’) “has really taken his menus to another level” in recent months. The result is sheer perfection in every department. Food-wise, expect a succession of “breathtakingly beautiful” dishes presented via a series of tasting extravaganzas in the modern idiom, with fabulous offerings ranging from a pairing of Colchester oyster emulsion, cured sea trout and Yorkshire rhubarb to a dessert involving chocolate delice, milk crumble and yoghurt sorbet. In between, there are even more “elegantly plated” Michelin-starred masterpieces – perhaps veal sweetbread accompanied by heritage carrot, pickled shimeji mushroom and liquorice or poached pavé of Gigha halibut with smoked almond pesto and seaweed beurre blanc. This is “incredible, creative and generous food” out of the top drawer. Meals are fleshed out with snacks and mini-courses, while the prestigious Pennyhill Park wine cellar provides “exceptional” drinking across the range. Knowledgeable service also strikes exactly the right note, without putting on airs and graces – “the chefs even came out to have a chat and go through the dishes”, noted one contented soul.     

Good to know about Matt Worswick at the Latymer

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
Modern European

Matt Worswick at the Latymer is featured in

UK's Top 100 Restaurants 2018

Location for Matt Worswick at the Latymer

Pennyhill Park, London Road, Bagshot, Surrey, GU19 5EU

01276 486156

Website

Opening Times of Matt Worswick at the Latymer

Thurs-Fri 12N-1.30pm Wed-Sun 7-9pm

Reviews of Matt Worswick at the Latymer

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1 Review 
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Paul A

We'll be back
29 January 2019
It is easy to see why Matt Worswick has hit the heights of the Good Food Guide Top 50 with his devotion to the showcasing of familiar ingredients in unfamiliar taste combinations, the excellent wine pairings and the unfailingly helpful and knowledgeable front of house staff. We were struck by how difficult we found it to say which was our favourite dish on the seven course tasting menu when asked by the staff, because they were all individually delicious in making their own particular contribution to the overall balance of the meal. Another plus point was the extra information relating to each dish noted on printed cards and “served” at the same time as the food. Attention to detail was very much in evidence, a good example being the ability to choose the five course menu wine flight with the seven course menu dinner, which we did, although we ended up having an extra glass as the list contained a couple of other tempting beauties. The meal started with the inevitable gougères, this time with a truffle sprinkle, little ice cream cones with smoky baba ganoush and a wonderful pairing of Iberico ham and bergamot gel, and then good sourdough bread was served with a lovely black garlic spread with a taste of liquorice. None of these counted as one of the seven courses, as would have been the case at some Michelin star restaurants we have eaten in recently. The freshness of the poached oyster was evident and enhanced by the Oscietra caviar and the contrasting pickled Granny Smith apple cubes and juice and the tang of calendula. Normally we would feel hard done by to find two vegetarian dishes on a tasting menu, but, given the fact that such dishes are apparently very labour-intensive to put on the table and that they were quite stunning, we could not but approve in this case. We love celeriac and when it is salt-baked, served with super remoulade and a lovage sauce and Australian truffle and taken to new heights by a brilliant truffle ice cream, we are more than happy. Risotto is risotto - or is it? Artistic presentation playing off wild oyster mushroom against wild, crunchy rice made to appear almost black by some excellent malt vinegar powder and then paying respect to the classic version with a background of parmesan made for a dish that would deserve its place on any menu. It was interesting to consider the air miles involved in the next dish - top-class Orkney scallop and Brixham crab brought together with pickled sea aster with possibly a different origin again, but what a meeting of terrific tastes, especially when accompanied by the best crab sauce we’ve had outside Cornwall! The superlatives didn’t end there, either. The duck main dish was outstanding, with mouthwatering roasted breast and sensational seared liver with a mustard jus and authentic Waldorf salad contrast. The menu finished on a high with two desserts, poached pear on a brandy snap base with a sensational toasted almond ice cream, and a brilliantly balanced chocolate delice, milk crumble biscuit and yogurt sorbet. In addition, even the fresh mint tea was of the highest order, as were the petits fours, and this confirmed our impression that the whole dining experience had been very carefully curated. The solitary false note for us was that the dining room had not been significantly updated since our last visit and was decidedly out of tune with the lightness and modernity of the cuisine. Nonetheless we have certainly joined those who consider that Matt Worswick is deserving of more than one Michelin star.
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