Macellaio Roberto Costa sets out its stall from the get-go, leading you past great hanging sides of beef in a street-facing meat fridge, past a butcher’s counter and into the buzzy restaurant beyond. The USP couldn’t be clearer: this is a meaty paean to first-rate Italian beef, saluting and exalting every part of the cow. From a melting Italian-style tartare, bound with nothing more than peppery Tuscan olive oil, to unctuous tongue slices with salsa verde and wafer-thin slices of melting bresaola with buffalo mozzarella – every dish is built around the glorious 60-day dry-aged beef. Aside from the ever-cheery Italian hospitality, the star of the show was our char-grilled hunk of rib: a buttery, tender, flame-licked joy that made us want to gnaw the bone. To seal the deal, a patriotic wine list offers some real treats; our peachy, yeasty bottle-fermented Prosecco was as delicious as it was surprising.