SquareMeal Review
Silver Award
This sibling of Parisian big-hitter Le Taillevent may be rather stern looking, but charming service helps to soften the edges of its dark-green, low-lit dining room. Of course, its main appeal (to both wine buffs and casual drinkers) is the spectacular offering of 110 by-the-glass wines, as part of the overall list which exceeds 1,500 bottles. Each dish on head chef Ross Bryans’ menu can be paired to four glasses of wine from 110’s collection, making bottle-free drinking intoxicatingly simple.
Food-wise, the seasonally-changing menu deals in luxe versions of classic French fayre, with dishes arriving at the table beautifully presented, but with little pretension. Take the crisply crumbed pig’s trotter croquette, which is topped with a delicate assemblage of blood pudding, chunks of apple and giroles. Elsewhere, thick-cut slices of Barbary duck are dusted with aromatic lavender spice, while plump Orkney scallops arrive slathered in vanilla butter.
The crowd here is often business folk (prices are pitched far north of bistro territory), but 110 also makes for a cute date setting, not least because its divinely crisp apple tart tartin is the perfect dessert for sharing. If you want to feel like a true Parisian though, end your evening with 110’s selection of cheeses, naturally paired with wines from that stellar list.