A short hop from Blackheath station, this unprepossessing family-run Thai won’t win marks for style, but look beyond the neon sign & dark 1970s' suburban interior & you’ll find an unpretentious, dependable dining establishment. The tom kha gai is a creditable version of this pungent chicken soup, with a citrus tang & plenty of galangal heat. There’s also an array of curries & salads – including the aromatic pla-meuk with prawns, squid, lemongrass, chilli & coriander – plus an impressive selection of vegetarian dishes. Weekends are busy, & some find the table arrangement rather cramped, especially when the dessert trolley circulates, but these are minor gripes. With house wine under £12 a bottle, & most mains less than a tenner, Laicram is the kind of inexpensive restaurant every neighbourhood needs.