Lai Rai

Lai Rai means ‘little by little,’ which seems fitting for this buzzy, tightly-packed Vietnamese spot. Solo diners perch on low red stools; friends squidge in around low tables; and thirty-somethings scan the room in search of a back rest. The dollhouse-like exterior - complete with candy cane awning and frilly white bistro curtains - has passers-by stopping to peek inside; but don’t be fooled by its demure, pocket-sized looks - Lai Rai is anything but shy.

Distinctly new-wave, Lai Rai’s small plates reimagine traditional Vietnamese flavours, shaping them into brand new dishes with the unbridled creativity of a mad scientist. Golf ball-sized prawn lollies are delivered on sticks of sugarcane and coated in crunchy puffed rice, atop a punchy blend of satay and herb sauce. It’s indulgent, aromatic - Lai Rai at its best. Then there are bite-sized pork belly pieces, crisped up with a sticky caramelised glaze, and rice paper salad, laced with chewy strips of beef jerky.

Bigger plates take on a more traditional style: we enjoyed a crispy chicken leg dressed in familiar herb sauce, but we’d recommend spending more time with the delicious, wacky small plates.

As with any experimentation, some dishes work better than others. In a fragrant riff on beef tartare, diced beef is mixed with crushed peanuts, fresh cucumber and crispy rice paper, ready to be shovelled into perilla leaves, taco-style; great fun, yes, but ultimately it leaves us longing for the richness of a classic tartare. However if there’s no risk, there’s no reward, and dessert is a prize. Fish sauce and caramel ice cream is the brainchild of Clingy Wrap - the first in a rotation of dessert collaborators - and the umami-packed scoop is a wonderfully weird finale.

It’s a bit of a rollercoaster - some dishes fall a little flat, but many skyrocket with fresh innovation and punchy flavours, and we revel in the excitement of it all. As the sun sets, red lights cast a glow over the space which is now bursting with people and chatter. Lai Rai has been quickly embraced by Peckham locals and there’s a certain buzz in the air that tells us, this is the new place to be.

Now open on Rye Lane in Peckham, Lai Rai is a vibrant Vietnamese canteen that reimagines the spirit of Vietnam’s bia hoi culture for a London audience. Split across two floors, the space offers a playful take on retro Vietnamese dining, blending nostalgia with bold, contemporary design. A warm buttery colour palette, halo lighting and communal tables give it a sociable, energetic feel that shifts seamlessly from day to night.

During the day, Lai Rai operates as a casual café, serving strong Vietnamese coffee and a short menu of banh mi. The ‘Running Chic’ is filled with caramelised shredded chicken, pâté, crispy onions and pickled vegetables, while the vegan ‘Ryelane Delight’ layers cold cuts with sautéed mushrooms, whipped tofu pâté and miso kho quet.

In the evening, the atmosphere shifts as the canteen menu takes over. Dishes are led by Blair Nguyen of Vinaxoa, whose Saigon upbringing informs much of the menu. Small plates include lemongrass and lime roasted peanuts, Vietnamese five-spice beef jerky, and fried prawn with young green rice served on sugarcane stalks. Larger dishes such as grilled betel leaf beef with coffee barbecue jus, twice-cooked crispy chicken with fresh herb sauce and deep-fried mung bean coconut sticky rice reflect a style that is both fun and rooted in tradition.

Desserts are developed in collaboration with local creatives. The opening line-up includes Clingy Wrap’s unexpected Laughing Cow cheese, sweetcorn and caramel, alongside a refreshing cucumber, calamansi and mint sorbet.

The drinks menu is equally distinctive. Inventive cocktails like the ‘Pho Please’ - a mix of whiskey, pho-infused rice wine and house-made syrup - sit alongside boozy takes on Vietnamese coffee and a tight wine list curated by Top Cuvée. Lai Rai captures the warmth, chaos and creativity of a classic canteen, with a distinctly Peckham energy.