Lahpet West End

We find it troubling when people say they love Asian food, because to cram the diversity of the continent’s cuisine under a single bracket is to do it a huge injustice. Nowhere is this clearer than when visiting Burmese restaurant Lahpet’s second site in Covent Garden, which shone a startling spotlight upon the humbling realisation that we, in fact, know very little about the breadth and nuances of Asian cuisine.  

Sure, there are recognisable flavours on the menu: garlic, chilli, lime and ginger play prominent roles. But then fermented tea leaves and toasted chickpea flour lead the diner into uncharted territory, both of which are key players in one of the dishes it does best: salads. The kitchen team at Lahpet demonstrates a rich understanding of how texture plays into the satisfaction-element of food, and its salads are unlike any leafy concoction we’ve ever tried before. Its signature tea leaf salad (Lahpet Thok) is sweet-meets-sour with a kind of funky element running underneath, and each bite is fantastically crunchy with crushed peanuts, sesame seeds and dried shrimp.  

The restaurant even makes its own unique tofu from chickpea flour, which is deep fried and served with a lip-smacking tamarind dip. Meanwhile, a pan-fried piece of hake seems straightforward enough, but when served with a crisp cassava fritter and a velvety curried coconut sauce, it throws us out of whack again – in a good way. The plates can easily be shared and our jovial waiter didn’t rush us as we worked through each dish.  

We ordered tea to wash it all down with (Lahpet means ‘tea’, after all), but we’re told the cocktails are just as unique as the food. You’ll pay £15-20 for a main course, and up to a tenner for starters, so it’s not cheap, but not crazy either. To eat at Lahpet goes beyond a great meal though – it’s an education in the food of Burma, and for that we’re happy to pay our dues.

Lahpet West End is the second site of Lahpet, a Burmese restaurant which started as a stall in Maltby Street Market. Dan Anton and Zaw Mahesh have since grown their modern take on traditional Burmese dishes into a mini-empire with three sites across London. A relatively unknown cuisine, Lahpet has been instrumental in popularising regional specialities from across Myanmar, along with favourite national dishes that showcase traditional techniques like fermentation.

Lahpet West End spans two floors, with a heated terrace upstairs and a small courtyard at the front. Seating varies from intimate booths to larger long tables perfect for sharing. This warm, relaxed space is the perfect setting to enjoy exciting food and drink creations, while the bar makes an ideal spot for pre or post-dinner drinks. You’ll also spot jars lining the walls that contain regional pickles like the Shan pickle, made with choy sum, shallots, chilli, fennel seeds and rice. Dressed in sunny pink tones, rose gold touches, and leavy hanging arrangements, it has to be one of the prettiest places for more casual dining.

The Lahpet West End menu coveres all the beloved, including coconut noodles with chicken, tea leaf salad, and mohinga (Myanmar's national dish, a fish and lemongrass noodle chowder). While we’d always suggest going for the tried and tested favourites, there’s a lot to see here, stretching from green tomato salads and yellow pea fritters to braised mutton and king prawn curries and an aromatic hake masala.

The cocktail menu includes exciting blends like a betel leaf Lahpet Margarita, Thai basil and kaffir lime sour, and a chilli and lemongrass Paloma, but if you’re going strictly traditional there’s also a lovely green tea blend with ginger and red turmeric. There’s also a succinct wine list, with some of the most affordable by-the-glass options in all of Covent Garden.