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It would be easy to carb-swerve the Kudu bread at this cosy South African restaurant in up-and-coming Queen’s Road – but that would be a mistake. Served with seafood butter and warm from the oven, it’s dark and crisp on top, fluffy and light within, yeasty with just a hint of cumin seed: heaven in a cast-iron pot. Other hits from the snacks section include fried artichokes with miso mayonnaise, and a lusciously smooth chicken liver parfait.
Small plates of a flaky yet unctuous onion and beer tarte Tatin and super-savoury pig’s head tortellini were quickly polished off, while the braai lamb neck with smoked yogurt and Brussels tops was a gorgeous pile of tender pulled meat, perfectly paired with mineral-rich, barely-blanched buttery leaves. There’s a decent wine list with plenty of South African options to try, and a classic list of cocktails, while the restaurant itself is airy yet cosy, and very elegantly lit. Sophistication – and very good food – have arrived at Queen’s Road Peckham.
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