Being shoehorned into a corner of one of Victoria’s elegant old buildings seems slightly incongruous for a smart, modern Japanese restaurant, but Kouzu’s sympathetic, elegant design transforms the space entirely. Despite the shouted greeting at the door, there’s a “gentle romantic buzz” about the place that makes it perfect for date nights – although the business crowd also take full advantage of its “special energy”. “Wonderful” sushi is the headline act here, from old-school nigiri to ‘new-style’ rolls such as negi hamachi (yellowtail, kizami wasabi, aonoriko seaweed, bubu arare seasoning and cucumber). If you prefer your food cooked, the kitchen also delivers excellent tempura, Wagyu beef from the robata grill and specials, such as roasted duck breast with pickled kumquat and miso orange sauce. Desserts are “very well presented” too. Friendly staff “take time to listen”, and the drinks list will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go – and that includes some sexy cocktails.