24 July 2011
The premise here is simple – top-quality fish and chips at a reasonable price in a relaxed environment.
Nodding to the grand history of the British chippie, décor is all demure tiling and black and white photos of a bygone age. The menu speaks volumes as well, with end-of-the-pier classics like chip butty and mushy peas joined by dishes – like Fennel and Dill salad and Crispy Calamari – which speak much more of West London than Weston-super-Mare
Indeed despite much retro styling, so much is rooted in the modern food world. Service is bright and bouncy while the food hits all today’s culinary buzz-words. That means sustainably-sourced fish, freshly made sauces and environmentally-friendly packaging.
Of course despite all these knowing nods to both past and future, the most important for the present is the food and happily, Kerbisher doesn’t let you down here.
Cod and Pollack were prime specimens in a light, perfectly crispy batter. A heaped portion of greaseless chips banish fish-shop nightmares of the past. In their own special way, pickled onions and gherkins were divine, delectable additions. If there was one disappointment it was a Tartare Sauce that lacked just a little zing to really bring every bite to life. The lack of music and an alcohol licence (apparently on its way) also made the whole experience feel more café than restaurant despite the fine food.
Yet as both a snapshot of British food history and future and, vitally, a cracking fish and chips, there can’t be many better than Kerbisher & Malt.