KERB Counter

In 2009, Petra Barran had an idea. What if street food vendors came together, forming something greater than the sum of their parts? And with that, KERB was born. Now, it is the name in street food, acting as an incubator, accelerator and alma mater to vendors all over the capital. Wanting to push street food even further, this juggernaut has now opened a bricks-and-mortar site with tables, chairs, and even waiting staff to take your order. We could have sworn there was a word for that already…

Upon arriving at KERB Counter, we ticked off the Shoreditch checklist: metal plates, short menus and a rotating roster of bearded chefs (From The Ashes at time of writing). Thanks to prompt service, we were soon sipping on the dangerously smooth house lager, courtesy of Gypsy Hill Brewery. A melty pool of refried beans came first, spiked with a hit of ‘nduja, a tang of queso fresco, and accompanied by brilliantly brittle totopos for dipping - a cracking start. The pork and lamb tacos that followed, while both perfectly tasty, felt a little petite for their £9 price tag. Having washed down the tacos with some spot-on mezcalitas, we eagerly awaited the main event.

A platter of falling-off-the-bone barbacoa short rib came with the Mexican equivalent of all the trimmings: corn tortillas, salsas, pico de gallo and ‘dipping liquor’. While the texture of the beef was perfect, the meat needed oomph in the flavour department. Similarly, the ‘dipping liquor’ didn’t really taste of much, perhaps a knock-off of the consommé integral to birria tacos. All was forgiven at the arrival of the other small plate. Crisp-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside baby potatoes, doused in fiery adobo mayo pretty much stole the show.

Having only spent £25 a head plus drinks, we left well-fed, keen to see who would take up the mantle - or rather Counter - next.

KERB Counter is the newest addition to the KERB family, located in the heart of Shoreditch. Featuring an innovative bar and test kitchen, this spot promises to host emerging ideas within the London culinary community. 

Taking inspiration from their founding principle of supporting fresh talent from the 'kerb' up, the KERB Counter's test kitchen is home to a rotation of food residencies that allow visitors to taste new collaborations and pop-ups before they move on to other KERB venues throughout London. Their all-day bar also emphasizes creativity - the rotating drinks list is created alongside their partners Gipsy Hill Brewing Co, East London Liquor and Redemption Coffee.

KERB Counter promotes sustainability as well, by rewarding customers for bringing in their own reusable cups, using Bibendum's kegged wine, and advocating for a no-straw policy. 

This theme of responsible cooking continues in the test kitchen's first residency From the Ashes BBQ, a quarantine-project created by chefs Curtis Bell and Martin Anderson. They founded their Mexican-inspired BBQ spot after realizing that Shoreditch needed a fresh takeaway or delivery BBQ spot, so they started reaching out to farmers across the country to locate ethically-reared meat for their dishes. 

Their menu features dishes meant to be shared by two - such as Achiote Celeriac and Short Rib Barbacoa, accompanied by fresh pico de gallo, tortillas, and house-made pickles. In the mood for something smaller? Check out their selection of tacos, such as their classic Cochinita Pibil, Lamb and Anchovy, or the Crispy Aubergine with queso fresco and chipotle. Or if you're in a snacking mood, bar snacks, sides, and salsas also fill out the menu. 

The restaurant is made-up of two parts - upstairs is dedicated to walk-ins, where you'll find drinks and snacks, and downstairs is reserved for the sit-down dining experience. The test kitchen is only open Wednesday-Friday from 17:00-22:00 and Saturday from 12:00-00:00 (so the chefs can have a well-deserved break), but you can always find something to eat or drink at the cafe.