Julie's

Most restaurants close and disappear quietly, but Julie’s is a restaurant that just won’t die. 2024 marks a third reopening for the zombie restaurant of Holland Park, and as you saunter up the street, past whitewashed townhouses, black railings and grey Range Rovers, you can see why. Julie’s has a killer spot - a quiet little passthrough deep in residential Notting Hill, under the shelter of two languid cherry trees. If one lived in a townhouse with a black front door and a Range Rover outside, Julie’s is definitely where you’d come for an al fresco martini.

Three reincarnations later, Julie’s is still ‘a place to be’. As we’re enjoying a drink outside, restaurant royalty appears for dinner in the shape of Fergus and Margot Henderson. It still has that special, intangible quality that makes you feel special, whether it’s the gentle but consistent attention of staff, or the glitz of the interiors.

Julie’s 3.0 has a killer team now too, in wonderful GM Emma Underwood and chef patron Owen Kenworthy, who’s food we adored at Notting Hill boozer The Pelican. Kenworthy’s menu here delves into a more Gallic bag of tricks, adding some pizzazz to classic French brasserie dishes.

One thing is for sure, Kenworthy knows his sauces. A plump trio of crab and scallop tortellini come swimming in a magnificent brown shrimp beurre blanc, and the bordelaise that comes pooled around a rare piece of onglet is superb - deep, rich and glossy with bone marrow. These are sauces that demand extra bread orders. We dearly wished we had ordered the skate wing and sauce gribiche, but the beef fillet tartare was also superb, arriving in a deep silver bowl for DIY stirring.

A duck liver schnitzel is a fine idea (and by all accounts it is becoming a Julie’s signature) but we found it a little lacking on seasoning, and perhaps subjectively a little overpowered by shallot marmalade. These are very fine margins we’re talking about though, and in almost every other aspect Julie’s is a fabulous restaurant - there’s nothing not to like about a chocolate pave with a secret salted caramel centre, or sipping on a Martini under the boughs of a cherry tree. Whatever way you slice it Julie’s has that special something, and the resurrection of this West London icon is a welcome one.

Julie’s is a glamorous restaurant and bar in the heart of Holland Park specialising in modern French brasserie cooking, punchy cocktails and fine wines. Chef patron Owen Kenworthy leads the kitchen (previously Brawn and The Pelican), where he curates a menu focused on luxurious French classics served with showstopping flourishes.

Originally opened in 1969, Julie’s was once a haunt frequented by A-list celebrities, hosting household names like Mick Jagger, Kate Moss, and even Diana Princess of Wales. The restaurant is named after its original founder, the acclaimed interior designer Julie Hodges, although its most recent re-opening saw the decor handled by London-based interior designer Rosanna Bossom. Picture bespoke chandeliers, yellow and gold accents, and an intriguing oyster shell bar. The 160-cover restaurant also includes an alfresco terrace, a ground-floor dining room and bar, and a basement dining area.

Alongside an all-day a la carte menu served throughout the week, weekends introduce a brunch menu on Saturdays, plus a selection of sharing roasts on Sundays. For quick and casual occasions, Julie’s also offers a set lunch menu - ‘Formule Du Jour’ - from Monday to Thursday.

To start, diner can choose from an array of snacks, which would make excellent fodder with one of its Green Tomato Martinis. Think spider crab toasts, duck rillettes and a nduja Scotch egg. Starters include crowd-pleasers like caviar and oysters, while more substantial options span a rich onion soup, and its signature beef fillet tartare with fermented beer relish, egg yolk and crispy shallots. Main courses are just as luxurious, from lobster souffle to sole meuniere, and sirloin with dauphinoise and peppercorn sauce. While for dessert, expect classics like chocolate mousse, or rum baba.

Cocktails are a major focus, spanning signatures, classics and non-alcoholic options, while the fine wine list includes both a Coravin selection and a Guest selection that changes regularly to always offer diners something new.